One day, in the early summer of 2005, during the beginning of my odyssey into casinoland, a friend called and asked me to go with her to Dubuque, Iowa, to try the riverboats there. I didn’t want to go that far to gamble. I didn’t really want to go gambling at all. But I wasn’t doing anything else that day, so I suggested that we try Potawatomi Casino in Milwaukee. My friend said no, that Potawatomi was a rip-off joint and that nobody ever wins anything worth making the trip.She wanted to go to Dubuque, Iowa, because someone told her a woman went there in May, 2005, and won $750,000.
I thought that such a big win was unlikely in a place like Iowa where hard-working farmers are more inclined to tend their wheat and cornfields and feed their cows and pigs than slot machines. I was wrong—about Iowa, that is. That’s where it all began, this proliferation of casinos across the American landscape.
In March, 1989, the Iowa State Legislature passed the “Excursion Gambling Boat Act” that brought riverboat gambling to the state as a remedy to the economic problems it had been suffering for more than a decade, the result of a rapidly declining population and the loss of manufacturing jobs in the farm and heavy construction equipment industry.
State legislators hoped to increase tourism by allowing the boats, replicas of 19th century steamboats, to cruise the Mississippi river. Their public relations strategy revolved around capitalizing on Mississippi River lore and the legacy of Samuel Clemens, aka Mark Twain, who was born a little further south, in Florida, Missouri and grew up in the river town of Hannibal.
Tourists would come to Iowa in droves to experience a bit of 19th century culture while cruising along the river in replicas of boats that once transported passengers, cargo–and slaves–to destinations further south. Of course, the fact that Clemens witnessed at least one coffle of black women and men in chains being forced onto a riverboat down at the docks in Hannibal and might have transported some himself to the deep South during his career as a riverboat pilot would be omitted from this history of 19th century river lore.
There also would be no mention of the fact that his family owned a slave named Jennie whom his father sold to a trader to pay off some of his debts and who probably was taken away in chains on a brightly painted and gingerbread decorated steamboat headed for a cotton or sugar plantation way down South. Slavery is unspeakable history and the excursions were meant to be family fun. The kids could enjoy the scenery and the pleasant river breezes while their parents gambled, thereby helping generate the new revenue the state so desperately needed without giving a thought to that other revenue generating industry that kept much of this country’s economy afloat for several centuries.
On April 1, 1991, a fully outfitted riverboat casino, the Diamond Lady, was docked in downtown Bettendorf, Iowa, thus inaugurating legalized riverboat gambling in the United States. The following year the owners of the Diamond Lady packed up their boat and their profits, most of which came from local residents, not tourists chasing after Huckleberry Finn, and left. They had made big promises to the people of Iowa: new jobs, a riverfront complex, a Mark Twain amusement park, hotel, and so forth. Instead, they left over 600 Iowans unemployed in their wake as they sailed on down the river to even greater profits in Mississippi, which even after the devastation of Hurricane Katrina, remains the gambling mecca of the South.
The floodgates that were opened in Iowa in 1991 widened as neighboring states joined this new and high-tech gold rush, dropped the requirement that riverboats cruise and eliminated wagering and loss limits. Now all the new prospectors had to do was convince lawmakers and the public that casino gambling was a new form of entertainment that will help boost the economy, dock a boat at a riverfront and sit back and count the money that began pouring in. By 1994, when another riverboat, the Diamond Jo, floated into Dubuque, land-based and riverboat casinos were popping up all over the Midwest.